holley sniper efi iac problems10 marca 2023
It could be, but that seems unlikely.Instead, you need to look at the basics. As you see above, the Sniper is going to dump in a maximum amount of fuel at zero TPS, begins to remove acceleration enrichment at 60 percent TPS, and then removes all acceleration enrichment correction at 100% TPS. back upthe RPMs shoot up to anywhere between 1500 and 2000 and they will not get Follow this link to download it for free if you have not already done so. If you did not rotate the distributor to set the actual timing to 15 that might be the only issue. The first 250-300 miles were amazing as the Sniper EFI worked flawlessly. The tps has slotted holes, can you adjust it to get to zero? What must remain foremost in your mind is that the only thing that can cause the idle to increase is additional air getting into the engine. Now it registers zero and I have good idle but it will not register until it hits 60 and up. By the way your site and your accessory products are nice. Idle Tuning is a very important part of tuning any EFI system, especially our self-learning units like Sniper or Terminator X EFI. Or is there something else I should )If you rule out a fuel supply issue then we're going to have to gather a few more clues. But there are several degrees of play there in which it should still work fine. I readjusted my IAC, now it's perfect. What should I be looking at to calm this down? Holley documentation and videos didn't work and the $300 I paid for "expert" tuning didn't work either. But nothing beats a good solid gut-check So I have been driving it for about 400 miles now to numerous car shows and going out for cruises around town, trying to work some of the bugs out from everything we did this winter, but I notice when I take off from a stop sign or I cruise at a very low speed (say30 mph) it seems to be very boggy from no throttle to about 1/8th throttle. Hello Chris. Having a TPS that won't go lower than 9% will affect the acceleration enrichment correction, and could create a stumble at the first moment of throttle opening.Yes, the IAC can and will fluctuate depending on changing conditions. such high fuel pressure. Going back to what you said. If the TPS is 1% or below then the air is coming from somewhere else. ps. This page was generated at 12:26 AM. I thought 12.0 was leaner at idle, but I figured out I was wrong.lol. This was an issue in the earliest version of the Sniper firmware. Simply turn the idle speed screw on the linkage in until the throttle plates open enough for the idle to increase. However, whenever you start changing things, you can get into a chain reaction. Advanced throttle body injection systems capable of transmission control and more. It shuts off when coming to a stop sign, at any cruising speed and romdomly at idle in park but never when excelerating. The warmer the motor, the higher the idle will be at this point. If your RPM is 2000, your TPS is 0, and your IAC is not closing, then there is some problem. Physially manipulating the linkage by hand will generally reveal if you have a sticking linkage that is preventing the TPS from returning from zero. Capability Range: Advanced My issue is that the TP% will not reset with key cycle and its idleing at 9% TP. The engine might run hot but if the timing is right it should keep that heat in the engine--which is where the damage turns up. In some cases, you may only be able to put as little as 10 RPM between the hard idle and the target idle. First, I'm kind of insistent about not changing any of the default settings unless the vehicle absolutely will not cooperate enough to drive/learn, and only then if you have a specific understanding of the problem and a specific solution. I did change the -40 thing also. We have never had that problem with any of the units that we have shipped. I'm Having trouble with the Sniper on high Idle. No timing control, coil negative ignition type. Turning it off and back on would reset it, and then it would work as advertised for a while. We've already tried adjusting the Acceleration Enrichment chart in all ways, going up and down, RoC Blanking, everything, it has no effect. And your understanding of how the throttle position affects idle is exactly correct. When I covered the IAC with my finger, the RPM dropped so low it stalled. Idle quality is great, RPM is good, sometimes IAC is now between 2 and 5 exactly where it should be. As inconvenient as it might seem, I'd recommend keeping a timing light handy and checking your timing during the high idle condition and then again after restarting. Well, it turns out that with the current firmware this throws the IAC control into a bit of confusion. I ask because I'm using a PCV valve with my Sniper and have random idle issues as well. Setup: 1965 Impala SS; ZZ6 Crate Engine, EFI Distributor. It is reliant on the data acquired by the included wideband oxygen sensor. It won't take much! Let If the TPS reading on your Sniper EFI System does not reset to zero that is a problem that needs to be addressed. That could be a problem with the TPS or it could be some sort of throttle linkage issue. Ive tried setting the prime setting above 150 but it wont take, it always goes back to 150. The noise changes sound with the throttle position. That is likely just confusing the issue.Instead, choose whichever setup most resembles your camshaft and stick with that. It is how the engineers allow you to clear a flood condition when you detect it. If I adjust idle screw out to get the tps to zero or even 1% the engine will not idle. We're never going to fill up your email box with nonsense. Hi Chris, I have a lean stumble on throttle tip in 2-3% tps taking off from a stop light the afr will go to 19afr and the engine will stumble for a split second. The problem was RF interferance . )Since this isn't a consistent issue with all Snipers that tells me that different IAC settings tend to make the whistle. Only in the unlikely event that your engine simply won't run well enough to drive and self-learn should you consider tweaking anything inside of the first several hundred miles. I have heard some guys complain that the idle is too good and they can't hear their cam anymore I'm kind of like that. In the wizard I set my Idle to 500RPM but it never got slower than 800RPM, if I run the wizard again and lower to 400 RPM then it never gets lower than 700RPM.After reading about the Idle Speed curver I checked its settings and found that the curve was 300rpm faster at every point over the temp range no matter what temp I had, I adjusted the curve to match what I put in on the wizard and now the RPM is correct, I'd say you have a bug in the wizard.Idle Speed > Idle Speed Curve: Here is where the lack of coolant temperature is going to affect you. This increased idle speed is triggered by grounding the orange wire in the 10-pin I/O harness. All of the wiring exits below the rear fuel injector cover, for a completely stealth installation. WIthout knowing quite a bit more it will be more than challenging for you to identify the problem and solve it.Fortunately, Holley provides their amazing Sniper Software. Hello. Initial thought is timing but Im running a cd box and the ecu is not controlling and I did not physically change it during the install. Shut off car/restart and it's back to idle at Due to when the pump i'm using now makes a loud howling noise when it gets ran for awhile and it gets at a 1/4 tank of fuel or less. :-). Add To Cart. That is what I really respect about Holley. About two minutes after I get it set at 850 & 5%, it has progressed to 100%. I believe that for the HyperSpark the Reference Angle should be 57.5. Bottom line ismy first one must have been faulty. It is good to at least know that the Sniper fuel pressure regulator can have high pressure failure issues (contrary to what I posted to Scott back on April 13th!) After speaking with Holley Tech Support and Tech Support from where I purchased the systemthey decided to replace it. But if the idle is a little bit higher then it doesn't have to jump quite as much in response to the load, and tends to react a little bit more smoothly. It would be possible to set up a 1D or 2D table and do something like this, so if you've gotten into these advanced setups then that would be another thing to check.If neither of these work then I'd recommend that you do a data log of the engine idling as the temperature is reaching and then exceeding 200 degrees. the gas it catches itself and runs fine at slower speeds. The Sniper ECU can use the timing to help maintain the idle speed and that will definitely be useful in that transition from Park/Neutral to Drive.If you don't have ECU-controlled timing, or if you do and it's not fully compensating, it may be necessary to increase your target idle slightly. Holley have given a new unit. All EFI systems need a large fuel filter to trap dirt and yet not reduce volume. The AFR was pretty consistent around 13. This curve turns the idle speed down as the engine warms. Just getting it to act right at startup is a struggle. I also raised idle at Park a bit with the idle screw. I recently bought the car with the EFI system on it. But once you come off the throttle there is a minimum RPM that the ECU wants to see before it releases the IAC from the park position and that is normally 1000 RPM over the target idle. There is a chance that the IAC is open but displaying 0% so start by putting your finger over the IAC opening. The RPM would increase for no reason. While this video is not meant for the Sniper EFI user it does provide a great overview of how your ethanol tuning adjustments must be made not only to the base fuel map but to the other configuration settings. Could the IAC be broken/malfunctioning? I'll have to check again tomorrow. Have you ever experienced a high idle once the engine reaches 200 degrees?Ive set my idle the way you said and it works great until the engine reaches 200 degrees. It will need to see it again and again. Please give this a try and let us know how it works! I can have it working fine (5% to 10% at target idle at operating temp.) If the engine idles at 750 RPM with the throttle plates all the way closed and the IAC at zero then there is some sort of an issue. They tell you to ask call Holley. % = 49 Could be a bad IAC motor, replace it and see if that solves the problem. There's still a very small amount of airflow that squeezes past a closed IAC valve; it's that venturi like sound you're hearing. I took some pics of the sensors page this morning after the car warmed up. If you complete the process and find that the IAC is less than 2% at idle, repeat the process and use the set screw to make the RPM about 60 RPM below the target. Get a solid feeling for where it is when the engine is warm and the idle speed is correct. I called support line he said he would have to look into it and call back. And yes, monitoring the fuel pressure is the right answer. Its just at low speeds, not sure if its loading up or leaning out. Copyright 2022 Holley Performance Products, Inc. All right reserved. Hi I wish I had bought from you but I didn't find this site until now. Fuel Prime Multiplier is primarily a benefit to throttle-body based EFI systems. That is not something I'd ignore. I've abbreviated it just a little bit but am appreciative of the added insight your comments provided.Off-idle performance can really be a challenge to self-learn but be assured that it can almost always be done. The only way to do this is by installing a mechanical fuel pressure gauge. I have a bone stock 350 that I installed a Sniper on and had the same whistle noise, presumably from air going past the butterflies. The fuel pump is mounted under rocker panel as low as possible and far away from any heat. I believe because the TPS is not registering. The Sniper EFI remote IAC (Idle Air Control) and plug is designed to gain installation clearance on some Sniper EFI 2x4 installations. Not good.There isn't set solution here that works for all engines. An undersized or partially plugged fuel filter is a classic EFI installation mistake. Put a strong piece of tape over the IAC breather hole--duct tape or something that couldn't possibly be sucked into the throttle body. = 2.34 My primary reason for going EFI was drive-ability, (Startup and take off without waiting for the engine to warm up) and not have the occasional hesitation a carburetor has especially just barely opening the secondaries. Laptop Access If that tested out okay then I can really guess that there might be some sort of intermittent, temporary RFI. Hey Chris Thanks. I also tried changing roc/map to 8 from 15 again no change at all.My ve table is smooth and tuned I even changed my AFR to 13.5 from 14.2 and no change at all. It is easily solved by installing a four-hole gasket or four-hole spacer (depending on your hood clearance issues.) You will find a startup IAC percentage, an amount of time it holds at that percentage, and an amount of time it takes to idle down to the normal idle speed.By default, that number is 50% at normal operating temperature. Enjoy! Any ideas here? You can drop it down and you will find it will behave more like you expect. The ticking is inline with the fuel pressure I feel squeezing both the fuel return & delivery lines (like a heartbeat). I very pleased with the performance, it is a huge improvement from the 800CFM carb I had on this motor. It's hard to know what the previous owner did right versus wrong. At idle my IAC is 3-4, AFR around 13-14, TPS is 0, timing 15-17. Again, I would lean on that solution to let the vehicle drive/learn before you try to "fix" anything. Maybe here will work better ?Sniper High Fuel PSIMy fuel psi is over 90 according to a brand new Auto Meter pro mechanical gauge tied in at the inlet to the Sniper using an AN adapter.I did the search function on here and found a similar high PSI issue that was fixed by clearing the return line.I have checked the return line hose for kinks and have removed it and blew thru it without any back pressure. technical rep said "You ahve high fuel pressure". :-)Yes, learn impacts idle too, and remember the even when the basic learning is done there will continue to be some learning for changes in weather, altitude, etc.Go ahead and try a few idle settings and see how they impact the idle-speed searching. i would have been happy to answer there. There are two ways to address this--you can let the system learn or you can manually adjust the acceleration enrichment. I had that problem, right out of the box it would not power up, sent it back in, had defective hand held. Drives just fine but won't stay running unless I keep my foot on the gas. The engine ran so good, I would have never suspected the Fuel Pressure to be an The data that you provide shows that you have at least two problems. NOTE: Do not attempt to set the target idle speed and IAC position until the engine is above 160F! Honestly, I've never seen this happen but if the butterflies were misaligned on the shafts it could allow too much air to enter. I installed a sniper efi system on my 1969 Camaro. Given the circumstances I would say that it is either the IAC motor itself or RFI but you seem to have ruled both of those out. The engine runs beautifully, with perfect idle at 650 RPM, but every now and then I hear the IAC give a sort of "snap" and the idle is at 1200 RPM. I installed the Holley Sniper in my Chevelle this winter with a brand new BluePrint 496. Comp. Next, reach down into the secondaries and push the butterflies closed. When I shut it off then start it If you have somehow overlooked this, start here: Holley Idle Speed Adjustment Instructions: Once the engine is up to operating temperature, the idle speed can be set to what was configured in the Wizard. This happens no matter how much I adjust the idle screw. As I said I didn't buy from you so you don't owe me anything. If it does then you can put on a heavier spring so the advance doesn't come in as fast, or use a lighter weight. You advise would be greatly appreciated. I will turn it up some more.Is this something that the ECU will learn? Your suggestion to remove the PCV valve is just for diagnosis purposes, right? At low levels RF interference will often reset the ECU so quickly that the engine will not stall. Thank you. Tried that and it didn't work? I know its not flooded because I can pour a little gas in the throttle body and play with the accelerator and it will start and run fine. I have now determined with the TPS the noise correlates with the opening of the secondary butterflies. first attempt but as it tries to idle down to the target RPMsit can never even This is extremely unreliable afrer warm. While confirming, in the handheld ensure that the Reference Angle is set to 57.5 and that the Inductive Delay is set to 100. I can adjust at 160deg, but my fans turn on at 180deg. 2. Definitely would have went with you guys. Idle was around 1000 mark and iac 0. One thing you need to sync the timing and set the inductive delay. I have a Holley Sniper EFI with HyperSpark ignition. I pulled over and turned the car off and then back on. I'm new to the efi thing and any help would be seriously appreciated. (I'm running from a fuel cell on the garage floor 10 feet away with lines in plain sight and do see fuel coming from the return at a decent flow. Based on your situation above as well as some of other experiences, I recognized that I needed to improve my tuning procedures above to better explain what steps to take if that 10-step process doesn't completely solve the problem. There are six different acceleration enrichment tables that you can tweak and that may be the way to go. For someone in your position, it will become an indispensable tool in your tool box. Reducing that a bit will help. This is a mighty big subject for a blog post reply, I should probably start doing some videos on this. If you get into the practice of hearing all three of these sounds you will know if you have a problem even before you turn the key to crank. The solution is to either lower the IAC hold position or increase the RPM above idle to start ramp (default is 1000 RPM). I will try the other stuff when I get off work. This is normally used as an A/C idle-up circuit. Hot start it most of the time wont start unless I give it a little throttle. Target AFR, A / F = 13.5 Some advanced conceptsIf you have the Sniper Can-Bus to USB Adapter, you can connect your laptop, open the software to the learn table, and get a visual for where in the table you are experiencing the lean bog. Idle > IAC Kick. Either the Walbro pumps you are getting are not genuine (lots of forgeries being sold) or else you have something that is killing them. It's pretty hard to get the header tubes glowing at idle with a lean AFR. After doing TPS reset it starts fine but when you give it some gas it hangs at 1500 and will not return to idle. You might have a bad IAC, but you can also have a bad vacuum pod on the transmission. If there is an issue with using the Sniper EFI TPS signal, is there a remote TPS or an adaptor for the Sniper EFI that allows the TPS signal to be accessed for the transmission. I believe that you have this problem solved now with your new inline filter/regulator. But you've got to find where air is getting into your engine.The reason it's going up as high as 2400 RPM is because once you press the throttle beyond 1% the IAC opens to the park position. Running the vacuum advance and of course I time it disconnected. After only running for about 15 minutes or so the system starts to fail stalling the motor. Does anyone have photos of this additional return spring they installed?
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